Saturday, May 23, 2015

The Art of Dynasty

Over the last few weeks, we've been trying to catch up with the flurry of art shows that seem to burst on the scene at this time of year.  In London, we managed to dash over to the Tate Britain for a quick look at an exhibition of 19th century British sculpture. We wandered, open-mouthed, through an amazing collection of monumental busts of Victoria herself, and an array of other pieces that heroically recaptured the national past, or glorified the new technologies of the Industrial Revolution in a highly ornamental and overly-decorative fashion.  This Elephant from 1889 is made of lead and tin-glazed earthenware majolica by the Minton Ceramic company and is over seven feet tall!

Here in Paris, the hot ticket is to visit Frank Gehry's new building in the Bois de Boulogne where the Luis Vuitton Foundation Collection is housed.

Like the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, the building itself overwhelms the visitor, with its multi levels, cantilevered roofs, open terraces and around each corner, a great view of the city itself.

Also a view of the two of us, up on the top floor, waiting for the security fellow to open the door to the terrace!



In the permanent collection, though, this sculpture by Thomas Schütte (Man in Mud) holds its own in scale, not just with this building, but with all the Victoriana we saw in London!

From an earlier era, the Musée d'Orsay building still reflects its original function as the Gare d'Orsay (from where my friend Anne-Marie used to take the train to Orleans as a child), with its arched, skylit ceilings and its huge clock.

Along with its permanent treasures, the museum is currently showing a big retrospective of the paintings of Pierre Bonnard (1867-1947). Setting aside plans to become a lawyer, he devoted his life to painting, joining the group of artists who came to be called the Nabis. Known for his many self-portraits, the studies of his muse (and later wife, Marthe), his friends and neighbors, he turned his eye and brush on the world around him, inviting us into the everyday events of his life, whether picking apples in the garden...




...sharing a meal with the sister of a friend, holding her cat on the table...




...offering an intimate glimpse of his life with Marthe...



...or giving us a bird's-eye-view of his beloved village of Cannet in the Midi-Pyrénées, where he lived for 25 years.




Beautiful as the Bonnard show is, though, two other exhibitions impressed us even more, not only with their mix of sumptuous, glorious paintings, but with the narrative they spelled out about the challenges of royal succession in 16th and 17th century England and Spain!



At the Grand Palais, the first exhibition ever organized in France of the works of Diego Velàzquez, is drawing a big audience. Here he is in this self-portrait from around 1650.
Born in Seville on the cusp of a new century (1599), Velàzquez studied in the workshop of Francisco Pacheco, where he completed his apprenticeship and married his teacher's daughter. He also produced many beautiful religious works, like this l'Immaculée Conception, a reflection of the debate going on at the time as to the truth of the Immaculate Conception. Velàzquez seems to have subscribed to the accepted devotion to the belief, even though the Catholic Church apparently waited until 1854 to officially adopt this dogma!



The crowning years of Velàzquez's life, though, were spent at the court of Philip IV of Spain where, as the King's portrait painter, he brought to life not only the King himself, but jesters, dwarves, actors and the children of Philip. Through these beautiful paintings, you can follow the whole drama of the importance and pressure of dynasty!


The birth of the infant prince Baltasar Carlos seemed to assure the all-important smooth succession, as portrayed in this painting of the robed and sashed young toddler and a dwarf from 1631...



...and even more firmly a few years later with the lively lad on his pony. But, alas, Baltasar Carlos fell victim to fevers and died at age 17 years, throwing the King and the Court into despair on the question of succession.




The infant Marie-Thérèse became the sole heir to the now widowed Philip, and her portrait was taken around the courts of Europe in search of a suitable suitor to continue the Spanish line!



Philip, looking so regal in this painting, then married his niece Marie-Anne of Austria, with whom he had five children.



Another son, Felipe Prospero, the new heir apparent, was born in 1657, and dutifully captured on canvas by Velàzquez, only to die four years later.

Once again, a sister, Marguerite, stepped forward, shown here in perhaps one of Velàzquez's most famous paintings. This portrait was sent to Vienna where her future marriage to Léopold 1 was arranged. Further paintings went back and forth, chronicling the growing up of the two young children.

The last of Philip's five children was another boy, Carlos, who slipped on the robes of succession when Philip IV died in 1665, taking the name Charles II. Due to his young age, his mother, Marie-Anne, served as Regent for over ten years. In spite of two marriages, Charles II died childless and heirless in 1700. His French grand-nephew, Philip, Duke of Anjou, succeeded him to the Spanish throne as Philip V, ending the line of the Spanish Hapsburgs.




A century earlier, the English Tudors were in a similar pickle. Thanks to the two recent television series of The Tudors, and Wolf Hall, their story is gaining a wide audience. And at the Musée du Luxembourg you can follow it in all its detail through some more breathtaking paintings. Here is the iconic image of Henry VIII by Hans Holbein the Younger, resplendent in ermine and embroidered robes, larger than life, exuding "power" from every fibre of his body.

Unlike the Velàzquez show, many of these paintings are by unknown artists. Here's Catherine of Aragon in 1520, Henry's sister-in-law and first wife, whom he married after her husband died, and from whom he was desperate to have a son. Only a daughter, Mary, survived.





Following the anullment of his marriage to Catherine, Anne Boleyn, perhaps the great love of Henry's life, followed, but with no more success, leaving a daughter, Elizabeth, and losing her head into the bargain.

When Jane Seymour died in childbirth, Henry charged Holbein to scour Europe and bring paintings of prospective brides. Holbein made this lovely miniature watercolor of Anne of Cleves who became Henry's wife number 4, but the marriage ended six months later with no issue.



As Henry continued to plough through two more marriages, the little son of Jane Seymour, Prince Edward, grew from infancy, as shown here in another richly painted portrait by Hans Holbein the Younger...


...to a fine looking young man, resplendent here in robes similar to those worn by his father in the Holbein painting. On the death of Henry in 1547, he succeeded as Edward VI. He was ten years old. His uncle, Edward Seymour, guided him as Regent, but history dealt another blow when the young man died at age 15, plunging the country into another succession drama!

In the turmoil that followed, it was Mary, the daughter of Henry and Catherine of Aragon, who received the most support from the English nobility. She became the first female Queen of England at the age of 35 in 1553. And quickly became known as "Bloody Mary" as she tried to turn the clock back against the Protestant faith and restore Catholicism. In this Anthonis Mor portrait you can sense her iron will and piercing eyes that must have struck fear into those around her.


Mary's reign of terror ended with her death in 1558, allowing the succession to go to the daughter of Henry and Anne Boleyn, Elizabeth.
During her 40-year reign, Elizabeth ruled over what is known as the "Golden Age", when England prospered, held sway over land and sea...



...defeating Spain in the great naval battles of the Armada. This portrait by an unknown English artist was made in 1558 to celebrate that victory.


But over it all, the same question of succession still hung! Prospective husbands from all over Europe pressed their suit, to no avail. Elizabeth's last great love was Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, seen here in this painting by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger. He fell out of favor, though, was tried and executed for treason in 1601.



Elizabeth died two years later, still a "virgin" Queen in terms of heirs of succession.


In another one of those twists of historical fate, it fell to the son of Elizabeth's second cousin Mary Queen of Scots (executed by Elizabeth in 1587), James VI of Scotland, to assume the throne, becoming James I of England, ending the Tudor era and beginning the reign of the Stuarts.
Here he is in a portrait from 1621 by Daniel Mytens the Elder, a Dutch portrait painter who spent much of his career in England. With the ascension of James I in 1603, Scotland and England became one country, the United Kingdom, a union that, ironically, some 412 years later, is now in danger of disintegrating. As a half-English/half-Scottish lass, I for one dearly hope the union holds!




À bientôt!







Saturday, May 2, 2015

Hither, Thither and Yon!

From car trips to Giverny, train trips to London, boat trips to Greenwich, and back to Paris, we seem to have covered a lot of ground in the last ten days, all of it immensely enjoyable, some of it utterly unforgettable. Here's a brief rundown:

First stop was a delightful visit to Claude Monet's home and gardens at Giverny, where I had not been for many years, and never at this time of year. School spring break has been in full swing, with lovely sun-drenched days, but for those not able to travel too far from Paris, a day trip seemed like a perfect outing.

Nephew Sean cleverly checked out one of Paris' famous autolib electric cars, packed a picnic lunch, loaded up Miss Florence, her friend Natasha and me, and off we went.
We had a lovely guide, who somehow managed to navigate us around the crowds of other visitors so that we could actually have an uninterrupted view of the main allée of the upper garden.


 Moving to the side beds, we met the main gardener (who is English!) and admired the diligence of members of the relatively small team of gardeners (ten), who take care of everything -- we never saw a single "dead-head"...


Tulips definitely were the stars everywhere you looked, but poppies, pansies, wallflowers and forget-me-nots managed to peek through and add to the canvas of colors.


Most of the tulips are the modern annual varieties whose bulbs are planted and then dug up every year, but there are a few of the perennial "ancient" varieties like these spiky blossoms, whose roots (ha ha!) date back to the "tulip mania" in Holland in the 17th century.



The variety of tulip species and range of colors really amazed us. I especially loved this one that looked almost like a camellia blossom.

Moving to the lower water gardens, we found spashes of intense color from flowering azalea bushes, wisteria almost ready to burst forth, and the lily pads quietly hibernating for a couple more months.

We contented ourselves with watching how carefully the gardener worked his way around the ponds, diligently scooping out any dropped leaves or other kind of "pond scum", so that those lilies would have all the space they need to do their magic.




Maybe we can make a return visit in a couple of months to check them out!

Our drive back to Paris became quite an adventure when we found we were running out of electric power and would not make it all the way. Sean quickly calculated the nearest autolib station in the Paris area, how fast we should drive so we could reach it, then cleverly got behind a semi-truck that pulled us along in its wake. All of a sudden, we were all startled by a loud voice coming from the dashboard: "Attention vous avez moins de 20%"! At first, we thought it was a recording, but, no, it was a real person at Autolib Central, making sure we knew we were running out of electric power! I still can't figure out how he did that, but we assured him we were going to be okay, and I was impressed that he could actually be in direct contact with us. Hmm, maybe he could hear everything that was said throughout the day!

Two days later, we took the Eurostar to London, where this gorgeous Ceanothus tree was in full flower in a quiet mews in Primrose Hill.  Lovely as this was, I was in England for something else, a true trip down memory lane, back to my old High School, St. Bernard's Convent in Slough, Bucks, where I last set foot in 1956!

Imagine my astonishment and relief, when the taxi turned in the driveway, to find the main school building and the adjacent chapel absolutely unchanged. I felt as though I was stepping through a time machine, the years just fell away and I found myself almost running through the side door, just as we all did back then!



Inside, I continued to be astonished. Although no longer a convent school, (it's been a co-ed grammar day school since the 1980s), the floor plan and the "feel", the air almost, seemed identical  Certainly, the floor tile has not changed...



 ...the view from my old dorm window is exactly the same, although the room itself is now a computer lab. The bell tower on the left rang every morning at 5:30, calling the nuns to prayer, and waking those of us who slept closest...


...the main central stairway now features a statue of the Virgin Mary. In my day, St. Bernard stood proudly looking down, and rumor had it that on his feast day (August 15), he would step down and roam the corridors...


A bulletin board in the entry way included a photo of someone I knew as Gillian Levi (two or three classes ahead of me), who took orders and eventually became head of the school. I could never have imagined that back then!

What I also could never have imagined is that my best pal, Sue Warren -- here we are as sulky teenagers on a school trip to Rome -- would join me at the reunion all these years later...



...but there she was, and, oh boy, were we happy to see each other!

I don't think we stopped laughing the whole afternoon!  And I know for sure we won't let any years go by without staying in touch. What a great day!

Meanwhile, Matthew spent the day with his friend Walter, at the Royal Naval College in Greenwich, designed by Christopher Wren in the late 17th/early 18th century.


Here, they straddled the meridien...



...ogled all four of John Harrison's brilliant longitude clocks in the Royal Naval Observatory...



...admired the ball on top of the octagon room of the Observatory...

...and were gob-smacked by the ceiling in the "painted hall" in the Royal Naval College. Designed by Christopher Wren and Nicholas Hawksmoor, its original function was to be the dining hall for naval veterans who lived at the Royal Hospital for Seamen.

The painter James Thornhill was charged with the interior decoration and directed to do honor to Britain's naval prowess and not to overlook the King (William of Orange)!

He included himself, modestly hiding his palette behind him, but on completion, he had created such an extraordinary decor that it was deemed to be way too grand to be a mere dining hall. The Painted Room became a venue for formal events, including the lying in state of Admiral Nelson after the Battle of Trafalgar.

With all this brilliant history (personal and national!) swirling around and over us, what could be better than a "circular cruise" on the River Thames, up under Tower Bridge...


...turn and go back down past the Tower of London and Traitor's Gate...


...all the way down to Big Ben...

...and, the most popular attraction in all of England, The London Eye!

We even squeezed in an evening performance at The Globe Theatre, an exact replica of the theatre that stood on the South Bank in the days of William Shakespeare, where the current production is The Merchant of Venice, with Jonathan Pryce brilliant in the role of Shylock. A play I studied at St. Bernard's Convent way back when, and I found myself muttering some of the more familiar stanzas along with the actors ("The quality of mercy is not strained...you speak an infinite deal of nothing...all that glisters is not gold", etc.). The theatre itself is "in the round" with standing room only in the centre beneath the open roof, and the entire place was packed. If you ever saw the film "Shakespeare in Love" you will know exactly the layout!

A lovely "Kate and Sidney" pie (Steak & Kidney) on a bed of mashed potatoes, with half a pint of London Pride Ale, and we hopped back on the Eurostar for the quick return to Paris....

...where it's been raining pretty much nonstop since Sunday night. Even the "Passages" are bringing out the umbrellas...

...and for those of us who like to indulge, it's a great excuse to stay indoors for some serious rounds of Machiavelli!

À bientôt!