On our recent visit to London, we wondered how much of the symbolic London Pride we might find amidst all the ongoing chaos of "Br-x-t" (people will barely say the word out loud!). One thing was clear: the weather was just lovely, mild, sunny, and the ceanothus outside the house where we stayed was at its stunning peak!
Some things were very much unchanged from our last visit. The Burlington Arcade still holds fascination for Matthew with all its fancy (and expensive!) watch shops...
...the elegantly dressed bear still stands outside Atkinson's Gentlemen's clothing store...
...and the shoe-shine man still has his place in the middle of the Arcade, and still has customers waiting for their turn.
At the far end of the Burlington Arcade, along Piccadilly, is the entrance to the venerable Royal Academy of the Arts, with the imposing statue of Sir Joshua Reynolds, its first president. Run by artists since 1768, they're celebrating 250 years of bringing world-class exhibitions, free displays of art and architecture, the annual Young Artists Summer Show, and much more. Definitely something to take pride in!
We were there to see their current featured show, "The Renaissance Nude", which explores the pivotal elevation of the nude in art, from 1400 to the 1530s. An important inclusion in the exhibit was this 1533 oil painting of Saint Sebastian by the Italian painter, Agnolo Bronzino. Earlier depictions of him usually show him being brutally martyred during the persecution of Christians by the Romans in 288 AD -- shot with arrows, beaten, thrown in a sewer. By contrast, Bronzino's painting blurs the boundary between the secular and the sacred, showing Sebastian casually seated, no longer tied to a tree, more like a portrait (albeit with one arrow piercing his midriff!).
There were, however, a number of examples of extreme brutality being rendered, such as this painting, The Martyrdom of the Ten Thousand, from the workshop of the Swiss artist, Hans Leu the Elder in 1508. In portraying partially nude bodies undergoing torture and sacrifice, artists sought to make Christian subjects more realistic and so more accessible, a testament, if you will, to their unwavering Christian faith. This particular work is based on the legend of Emperor Hadrian ordering Roman solders who had converted to Christianity, to be tortured until they renounced their new religion.
At the beginning of the 16th century, a growing interest in the Classical worlds of Greek and Roman mythology inspired artists to use this context to explore the nude. I loved this painting by Piero di Cosimo A Satyr Mourning over a Nymph painted around 1500. It's very quiet, but moving, both the Satyr and the dog seemingly bereft at the nymph's song being silenced by the wound piercing her throat.
Titian's beautiful rendition of Venus Rising from the Sea, goes back to Pliny the Elder, who described a painting of the same subject by the Greek artist Apelles. It became popular in the Renaissance, and although Titian is more known for portraying nudes in pastoral setting, he also turned to the subject in 1520, and produced this stunning work.
Another work that caught my eye and imagination was Jacometto Veneziano's 1497 work, titled on one side Portrait of a Man, and featuring a serious and quite prosperous looking gentleman...
...whilst on the other side, Lovers in an Interior, is an unabashed celebration of sensuality. I did wonder how the merchant from Northern Europe, who commissioned the work, chose to display the two very different sides of human nature in his home!
The only place to go after enjoying such beautiful art, was to step across Piccadilly and into the sumptuous world of Fortnum and Mason's, purveyor of exotic and basic provisions, established in 1701 by a former footman of Queen Anne, William Fortnum!
Here, a "nice cup of tea" (F&M's Darjeeling blend) and a serving of scones, clotted cream, and strawberry jam, were the perfect pick-me-up before we faced the challenge of getting back to our home base in North London.
I say "challenge" because our visit coincided with the arrival of the Climate Change Protest group, "Extinction Rebellion", that shut down large swathes of Central London. This bright pink boat took over Oxford Circus, where Oxford Street meets Regent Street. Marble Arch and Waterloo Bridge were similarly commandeered by groups of protesters, some of whom chained and/or glued themselves to various vehicles. Tents were set up, pop-up kitchens, blankets stretched out on pavement, music, speeches, singing. It was all very festive, but highly disruptive in spite of the importance and urgency of the message.
And just in case you might think they were only concerned with human beings, a list of other threatened species reminded us that we are all part of one big world, connected and dependent each upon the other!
Side-bar "discussion sessions" on Regent Street provided chairs and speakers, who went to great lengths to explain their movement. What struck us as so quintessentially "English" was that they were all unfailingly polite and solicitous...and often very apologetic at the chaos they were causing. I guess that's something to be proud of. No one was yelling, no windows were smashed!
Undeterred by the challenges of transport, we set out on Good Friday for Trafalgar Square and a visit to the National Gallery, which has been anchoring this iconic space since 1824. Here, it houses some of the world's most famous works of art. Our jaws were sagging as we wandered through huge galleries filled with legendary paintings by Constable, Reynolds, Turner, just to name three very English artists.
We were there, though, to see paintings by this gentleman, Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida (1863-1923), a Spanish impressionist painter, about whom we knew absolutely nothing, but who, in his lifetime, was a hugely successful painter of portraits, landscapes and works that presented social and historical themes.
Born in Valencia, Sorolla showed a talent for drawing from an early age. Orphaned at the age of two, he and his sister were raised by an Aunt and Uncle. Sorolla studied master paintings at the Prado Museum, then won a grant to spend four years studying painting in Rome and Paris.
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