Among the many pleasures of Paris are the abundant classical music offerings. The big concert halls -- Salle Pleyel and Théâtre des Champs-Élysées for example -- draw world famous artists and orchestras. Often, however, the true delights are found in the smaller venues, especially churches, large and small. Last night, we attended a piano recital at L'Église Saint-Ephrem. Tucked behind the Pantheon in the 5th Arr., this small church is named for the Syrian founder of an Eastern Orthodox Catholic sect in the 4th century AD. The liturgy celebrated in the church today dates back to the 6th century Jerusalem-Antioche, and is presented in Syrian Aramaic.
With its outstanding acoustics, the church is also a regular venue for recitals given by talented young musicians, all from the National Conservatory of Music of Paris. Last night's performer was a very beautiful 25 year old -- Elodie Meuret -- who entertained us by candlelight with works of Mozart (Sonata in D major), Beethoven (Sonata opus 81b "Les Adieux") and several pieces by Chopin in honor of the 200th anniversary of his birth. Really sublime and I think Madeleine Vionnet would have approved of her elegant gown!
Last week, thanks to a tip from an Inverness friend, we found ourselves at Le Temple d'Oratorio du Louvre in the 1st Arr. It, too, is steeped in history. One side faces the rue de Rivoli, across the street from the Louvre, and features an elegant 19th century statue of Gaspard de Coligny (1519-1572), a leading Huguenot Protestant leader who was assassinated in the St. Bartholomew's Day Massacre whilst attending the marriage of Henri of Navarre and Marguerite de Valois. Eventually, the church became part of L'Église Réformée de France, a center for the Protestant faith.
It wasn't exactly history that drew us there last week, however, but our very own San Francisco-based Chanticleer, who were performing there as part of their European tour! They gave a stunning performance of works by Roland de Lassus ("Tous les Regretz", "Miserere mei Deus" and "Laudate Dominum de caelis"). Roland de Lassus, by the way, lived at almost exactly the same period as the poor murdered Gaspard de Coligny, so it all tied in rather well. After the concert, members of Chanticleer mingled with the audience. The two we spoke with were pretty astonished and very delighted to learn where we were from, and that their CDs are played frequently on KWMR's classical programs.
Our final concert had a very special personal connection. In 2003, Matthew worked on a screenplay (Le Concert) with a French filmmaker friend. The story follows the madcap but also very emotional adventures of a group of former stellar Russian musicians, fired by Brezhnev from the Bolshoi Orchestra back in the 70s, who come together under their old conductor, get themselves to Paris, and pass themselves off as the current Bolshoi Orchestra, performing at Théâtre Châtelet. It took many years, but the film finally went into production, and has become a huge hit here in France. It just received 6 César nominations (think Oscars), and the Weinstein Company will distribute it in the States. If you look very carefully at the second photo in the first long line of text at the bottom, you'll see Matthew's name. And the movie is just wonderful, climaxing with a performance of Tchaikovsky's violin concerto. I was sobbing by the end, along with everyone else in the theatre!
À bientôt!
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