Location, Location, Location!

We're back in our favorite city, and by some amazing piece of good fortune, it turns out that our apartment on the rue Réaumur (2nd Arr.) lies in one of the great neighborhoods of Paris. We sort of knew it when we found the flat last summer, but we had such a short and madly busy time before we left at the end of June, that it didn't really sink in just how fantastic it is.  Monet, however, clearly knew when he made this famous oil painting, La rue Montorgueil, in 1878.

So, here's a little tour of the area known as Montorgueil, which means "Mount Pride".  The name celebrates the French Revolution, when a tree was planted at its highest point. Today, the tree is long gone, but the site is marked with this wrought iron archway "Marché Montorgeuil", just two steps from Métro Sentier, and one short block from our flat.

Long before the Revolution, though, in fact, since the days of the 12th century king, Philip II, the rue Montorgueil (known then as the rue Comtesse d'Artois) has been a food market street. Throughout the centuries, it has provided some of the city's best produce, fish and meat, along with all the other necessities of life!

You are barely two steps down the pedestrian-only street, when you find your mouth watering at the sight of delicious oysters, fresh from Normandy, available Friday through Sunday.

Across the street, customers line up for the daily delights at one of three bakeries, all of them offering an incredible array of fresh breads, croissants, brioche, quiches, tartes, sandwiches.

 Whilst you wait, you can pick up your newspaper next door!

The serious food shopping begins at one of three butchers, this one with a delightful painted panel above the awning of a stag at bay.

Inside,  your eyes can barely take in the rich selection of meat, poultry, saucissons, even some of the unmentionable (to Americans) innards, all ready to be sold to Madame by one of several friendly, enthusiastic butchers. They'll also tell you how to cook it!

For those preferring the veggie route, there's no shortage of fruits and vegetables and salad.  The delicious grapefruit at Le Palais du Fruit makes this Matthew's favorite stop on the street.

Even in the dark, cold days of January, you can also stop and engage in a game of chess with the proprietor of this stall, offering spiced, honeyed breads.

Paris wouldn't be Paris without a good cheese shop. Rue Montorgueil has two to tempt your palate. Right now, we are all feasting on the seasonal Mont d'Or cheese, only available October to March. Made from the winter milk of cows in the Jura region, brought down from their mountain pastures, it comes in a special round pine box with a layer of waxed paper over the cheese. At its perfect ripeness, it is very soft, almost liquid, scooped out with a spoon. Yum!!

About halfway down the street, le poissonière has the most friendly group of workers, who stand on the sidewalk, hawking their specials in loud, cheerful voices. Sometimes, they hold a tray featuring fileted dorade -- just for you Madame!

Most of the fish comes from the North Atlantic, which means it is fresh, fresh, fresh!

When you're ready for some serious dessert, keep on walking and you'll come to La Maison Stohrer, one of the oldest (1730) and most prestigious pastry shops in Paris. Anyone who has seen the documentary film Kings of Pastry knows with what serious dedication le patissier plies his trade.

Here are just a few examples to whet your appetite!

Not to be forgotten are the three wine shops, one a branch of Nicolas, a big chain of wine shops found throughout the city, and two others that seem to be sole proprietors. We are looking forward to endless sampling!

As well as all these speciality food shops, and two divine chocolate boutiques, rue Montorgueil also boasts two branches of U-Marché (supermarket), a couple of pharmacies, many cafés and restaurants, beauty parlors, telephone shops, eyeglass shops, and, very important, two lovely florists.

And, of course, a neighborhood is never complete without the all-encompassing Quincaillerie (hardware), full of all things imaginable to make your flat run more smoothly, from pots and pans, to floor coverings, to nuts and bolts and screws, etc. etc. I love the word "quincaillerie" - when you say it, it's as though you are hearing pots and pans tumbling to the floor.

Round the corner, there's even a little model train shop that would delight a certain dear friend in Portland!!

Finally, just to remind us of our political responsibilities, rue Montorgueil is proud to host the main office of the Socialist Party for the 2nd Arr.!  The party itself is currently in considerable national disarray, which may account for the fact that we have never seen any sign of life in this branch!

At the bottom of rue Montorgueil, a sign reminds you that you are leaving the small, villiage-like, pedestrian-only area. The busy rue Étienne Marcel is in front of you, and the Forum Les Halles just ahead. We'll cross that road some other time.

Meanwhile, this is the view from the windows of our flat -- Saint Eustache stands proudly in the winter light, with the Panthéon way in the distance across the Seine, in the fifth arrondissement.

It is good to be back!

À bientôt!