May Day

Every year, two very French traditions come together on May 1st: You have, of course, May Day, which celebrates workers throughout the country and the world, and then you also have La Fête de Muguet, the giving of little bouquets of lily of the valley (brins de muguet) to loved ones to wish them good health and happiness and to welcome spring.

On the rue Montorgeuil this May 1st, the street was packed. Most of the shops were open during the morning hours, as usual on Sundays, to give families a chance to buy this delicious veal roast, that fresh piece of salmon, or those "straight from the farm" butter lettuces for their Sunday dinner.

But outside almost every shop, stalls had been set up, selling the little sprigs (brins) of lily of the valley. From the poissonière half way down the street...

...to the bakery near the top end, and everywhere in between, someone was selling muguet, either planted in little pots like this gentleman...

...and in larger pots at one of the two flower shops on the street...

...or by the little bunch, like this Romany woman who set up her box on the street corner, and, for this one day in the year, she can relax and have no fears of the police coming to check her papers -- that simply is never done on May 1st!

Meanwhile, musicians stood outside the closed Paul bakery, entertaining the passers-by with songs and offering their cds to buy.  A young passer-by here jumped up next to them and did a quick dance turn for us all!

And, just because it was May 1st, the Socialist Party headquarters for the 1st and 2nd arrondissements finally opened up their doors,  put out their posters, and even had their own little "muguet" stall to benefit their coffers!

The main venue for political activisim on this day, though, took place at the large, sprawling Place de la République, where the 3rd, 10th and 11th arrondissements come together. Originally called the Place du Chateau d'Eau, it took its current name in 1871 when a public contest was launched for the construction of a monument dedicated to the Republic. The imposing figure of Marianne holds an olive branch in one hand for peace, and a tablet engraved with "droits d'homme" (rights of man) in the other. Seated around her are three other figures embodying the eternal French ideals of liberté, fraternité, égalité.

Over the years, the Place de la République has become the symbolic center of political demonstrations,  marches, concerts, fairs and fêtes, and today was no exception.

Matthew, on his way back from a bicycle ride in the Parc Vincennes stopped and watched as people came up from the République Metro station into the square, where they were welcomed by stalls selling food from around the world.

Everywhere he looked groups had set up their banners and posters, including the MLKP (Marxist, Leninist, Kommunist Parti) group...

....and these communist Kurds standing proudly in front of their hammer and sickle flags. If you closed your eyes a little, you could flash back 40-odd years and see these same gentlemen in their young, idealistic years, when this symbol had real meaning.

Labor causes were in full force, with the unionized drivers of these Moto-taxis demonstrating for the right to charge higher rates.

Each table seemed to be equipped with its own megaphone and loudspeakers, making it difficult to know what anyone was actually exhorting the public to do!

More and more banners and flags were strung up or held in hand, ready for the big march which would tie up the streets for the next few hours. This banner extolled the rights of women.

At the end of the day, though, it all had a bit of a "pro forma" feel to it, without the fervent passion from the days when socialism and les gauchistes had real power here.

Meanwhile, back in the relative quiet of our rue Montorgeuil, I ended up buying one "brin de muguet" from the Romany lady, and another from this stall, whose counter was just overflowing with these sweet flowers...

...and where the young man took such care in handcrafting each little bouquet, 9 sprigs for 2 euros.

Here in the flat, my little posy sits on my desk, smiling down at me.

Happy May Day!

À bientôt!