Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more...

So begins one of the most oft-quoted of Shakespeare's many texts (Henry V, Act III, Scene i). It continues: "Or close the wall up with English dead",  and includes endless exhortations: "Stiffen the sinews, summon up the blood", before ending with a final flourish:

"Follow your spirit, and upon this charge

Cry 'God for Harry, England, and Saint George!"

The breach in question refers to a gap in the wall of the Normandy city of Harfleur at the mouth of the Seine, at one time the principal port in Normandy. During the Hundred Years War, the English soldiers, led by Henry, held Harfleur under siege from 18 August 1415 until 22 September 1415, when they attacked the city and Harfleur finally surrendered.

It was, indeed, a bloody battle, presaging the final, definitive Battle of Agincourt, both of them (for history buffs) captured vividly by Laurence Olivier and Kenneth Branagh in their respective movie versions of the play.

Today, the English and the French are at peace, and visitors to Harfleur might have a hard time picturing the grim battle that took place so many centuries ago.

The city flag continues to fly proudly throughout the town

And in the port, a tiny segment of the wall remains as a reminder, although I'm not sure that many people take note of it.

There are still plenty of old timbered houses standing, along with the impressive 15th century l'église Saint Martin, with its highly decorated spire...

...and apparently, from time to time, schoolchildren get to dress up in chainmail and re-enact the bloody battle!

But, for the most part, the history of this town -- now completely overshadowed by the sprawling port city of Le Havre -- stays within the walls of the Musée d'Harfleur, waiting for those interested in learning about the past.

Meanwhile, across the Seine estuary, the "sister" town of Honfleur was also occupied by the English during the Hundred Years War, but you would find that hard to believe as well, here in 2011. Instead, a delightful, very pretty holiday seaside town greets you, complete with harbor and sailboats, and interesting port-side buildings with cafés and restaurants on the street level.

On our visit, this last weekend, a wonderful street market was setting up by the water, that included some tempting summer sandals.

Just up from the port, overlooking the harbor, a big food market was doing brisk business, with local saucissons and onions a hot item.

This stall featured only garlic, with not too many customers at this point!

As an avid sardine lover, I spent a long time inspecting all the different ways to enjoy this lovely little fish.

Honfleur also boasts an interesting church, l'église Sainte-Catherine, built at the end of the Hundred Years War entirely from oak, stone being reserved to fortify the town itself at that time.

The interior has twin matching naves, leading one to wonder how you choose at which altar you will pray! This weekend, flags from around the world hung throughout the church in a bright, colorful display.








Back from the harbor, the narrow streets of Honfleur are lined with timbered houses and flower boxes brimming with bright geraniums, bathed in warm sunshine in this photo, although just two minutes later...

...the sun disappeared and the heavens opened with such an incredible fury everyone had to scurry for shelter. Typical Normandy weather, we were told.

The area around Honfleur and the neighboring towns of Trouville and Deauville is known as Basse-Normandie, offering spectacular, panoramic views, where you'll find many of Normandy's most celebrated products:

Tripe à la Mode...

...Pont l'Éveque cheese...

...endless varieties of Camembert!...

...and, of course, not forgetting Cider and...

...the firewater, known as Calvados!

It's also home to many charming old villages, filled with these typical Norman timbered homes that brighten up even the cloudiest day.

What caught our eye as well, as we drove around, were the peaceful sights of cattle...

...and the numerous stud farms, producing beautiful foals for major horse racing events around the world.

A future Secretariat, perhaps?!!

Back in Honfleur, the storm clouds were gathering again. Not another siege, just more rain! Time to make for the car and take the train back to Paris St. Lazare!  We left knowing that a return visit to this very lovely part of France will be a top priority.

À bientôt!

(as always, many thanks to Matthew for these photographs!)